Hi natty,
I like what you've done here, and it's a solid map, graphically, but I can't honestly say it's FF-quality. There's just this mix of simplistic elements over a psychedelic background, coupled by some extreme bevels and text running rampant, and the word that comes to mind when I look at your map is 'chaotic.' There's just too much going on, too many clashing styles in one image.
The first thing you need to change is the water background. In fact, I'd probably first change the color to one more similar to that of the Iceland inset. I realize you're trying to set a dark fell in the back, and that's not bad, but there's such a thing as overdoing it. When something's too dark, the amount of time one can spend deciphering it decreases, and with it the legibility (the crux of your problems). On to the texture, I'm not quite sure why you chose this over-scaled, LSD-trip kind of pattern. Like I said, the background of an image sets the tone for the feel of the map. You should probably find a subtler pattern; the color scheme of the land already conveys your icy feel.
Next, I'd relook all the text. For me, that's lowering the opacity of that in the lower-left, upping that of the background bonus ones (and moving them to better spots that don't encroach the land), and finding a different font to differentiate between the tert names and legend stuff. On that same note, the title makes me do a backflip. It's two off-colored, widely-spaced, oddly-aligned words in an odd text—c'mon, you can do better.
I actually don't have much of a problem with your impassables, but I'd darken your trees and maybe sprinkle some snow on them.
The last thing is very simple: reduce the weight of the minimap inset border to that of Iceland. It'll free up space and look better.
I hope I'm not dooming you for a Japan-esque crusade to find the right map (which I'm probably not, because it's just certain aspects that create the wrong mood, unlike RB0's theme), but like Benn has said, it's just not there.
or 
if you remove it. 
